THE BEAUTY OF JAPAN'S TRADITION

Shunkaen BONSAI Museum: Shunkaen BONSAI Museum: Tokyo has always had the image of being a huge city, but the Shunkaen BONSAI Museum in Edogawa Ward is like an oasis in the city! During my visit, one of the museum's teachers who can speak Chinese kindly taught me about bonsai. Each bonsai's origins, how it came to be what it is today, and what kind of state it represents... I wouldn't have been able to understand these things so deeply if I had just seen them by myself. The explanations from the teacher were a big help in noticing lots of small details. In addition to touring the garden, you can also try bonsai making, kimono wearing, and tea ceremony. If you're looking for a taste of Japanese culture that you normally wouldn't experience, and in a traditional Japanese garden, then without a doubt this is the place to come to!

Kairyou Yu Bathhouse: Many people think that young Japanese no longer go to public baths, especially in trendy places like Shibuya. However, in Shibuya there is the very modern Kairyou Yu Bathhouse, a public bath, and before it opens people form a long line in front of the entrance so that they can be the first to bathe in the waters that day. The painting on the wall for the main bath is modern, but you can also still see Mt. Fuji in it, which is a must-have for public baths. On top of that though, Kairyou Yu Bathhouse's biggest feature is that the entire public bath is based on a whale theme. One of the baths, the "Zuikei-sen," also has a small whale toy that contains medicinal herbs for the water, and the way it floats in the water is so cute and adorable!

Lunch at Chez Lui: Chez Lui is a French restaurant whose interior and exterior are suffused with a retro European atmosphere, so the time that you spend here will be truly exceptional. I came here right during lunch time, so I ordered their A Course (¥2,800), which includes an appetizer, soup, a main dish (a choice of either meat or seafood), and a dessert and drink at the end. Personally, I thought thatall of the food and drinks were exceptional, and there was just the right amount for a lunch with fun conversation. If you want to eat a lot (like me), then I'd recommend ordering extra bread!

Tsutaya Bookstore inside T-SITE: As you all may know, This Tsutaya Bookstore is the most beautiful bookstore in Japan. I've been here numerous times before, but this is the first time that I've looked around so carefully. The area inside the store is divided into categories, and, in addition to the manga and novels that you'd find in any bookstore, there is also a large collection of books on art, design, and photography. It even has a small gallery, so it could be called a museum-bookstore! As you'd expect there is a lot of stationary, but there are also quite a few items that can cast as much as ¥200,000, which, to someone like me without much money, is hard to imagine... In addition, the shared lounge here has Wi-Fi, power outlets, and a variety of chargers, as well as free food, additive-free nuts, and drinks. This bookstore, which can be used as a library where food and drinks are available, is like a paradise for freelancers. A large rental space is also available, and it has sofas, desks, and chairs as well as a beautiful, sweeping window, so it looks like it could be used as a stylish meeting room or as a party room (although keep your voice down). It's perfect for visiting with a large group!

Dinner (Shibuya): Sushi Matsue: Sushi Matsue is an omakase (chef's choice) sushi restaurant in Shibuya Scramble Square. This was my first time coming here for dinner! Almost all of the ingredients are directly delivered to the restaurant from the markets in Toyosu, Hokkaido, and Kyushu, etc., and the quality is guaranteed. The omakase consists mainly of sushi, sashimi, and grilled yakimono items, and, if you want to enjoy alcohol, then you can also order sake or shochu. I ordered the "Sakura" set (¥9,600). There were seven appetizers, eight pieces of sushi, and of course hot dishes such as chawanmushi (a savory steamed egg custard) and miso soup, and I was eating non-stop until dessert! My favorite appetizer was the steamed abalone with liver sauce. When you eat the leftover sauce with the vinegared sushi rice, the slightly sour vinegared sushi rice is neutralized by the rich flavor from the abalone liver, which makes them a perfect match. And for sashimi, you can't miss the fatty tuna -- it's rich and luscious, and it melts as soon as you put it in your mouth. One point other point to note is that the tuna is double layered. It's incredibly luxurious!

Shinkansen Toki 305 (Tokyo Station to Urasa Station): The fastest and most comfortable way to get from Tokyo to Niigata is by Shinkansen! I'd recommend taking the Joetsu bullet train from Tokyo Station to Urasa Station in Niigata Prefecture. Conveniently you can go there by just a single bullet train, and you can also buy an ekiben boxed lunch at the station and then enjoy it on the train. And, when you get back to Tokyo Station on your way home, don't forget to buy some of the popular, limited edition souvenirs!

Uonuma no Sato: Uonuma no Sato is a heaven for fans of sake and shochu! This spacious site has a truly unique yukimuro, a delicious Japanese sweets shop, a sake brewery, a bakery, and more. The Hakkaisan Yukimuro in particular left a really strong impression on me. When I first heard the term "yukimuro," I imagined a large freezer warehouse, but this yukimuro is actually a natural refrigerator that uses snow! About 1,000 tons of snow are stored inside it to keep the indoor temperature between 3 and 5 degrees Celsius (37 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit). When sake like Hakkaisan and vegetables are stored in a large natural snow room like this, the sake slowly ages and matures, and the sweetness of the vegetables increases at the low temperatures. I really respect the wisdom of our predecessors, who came up with the idea of harnessing the energy of Mother Nature, which doesn't cost anything! When I came here before, there was only three-year aged Hakkaisan, but this time there was also eight-year aged Hakkaisan, which had just become available two weeks ago. When I tasted it, the sake had a very smooth and light taste, but with a lingering fruitiness. If you enjoy sake, then don't miss this stop!

Ryugon Doma cooking (local cuisine): In our modern lives we use rice cookers and frying pans to cook, but, in the past in snowy regions (Niigata is one of the regions in Japan with lots of snowfall), most homes cooked their rice, side dishes, and soups in a stove called a "kamado" which was of mud, stone, or bricks. This was my first time at Ryugon, a Japanese-style ryokan inn. I cooked rice in the doma (in the past, the doma was a space used for cooking; here, you can also keep your shoes on), and I have to say that the "doma cooking experience" was really interesting. First, I put a roaring fire by placing disposable chopsticks over the firewood in the kamado, and then I chopped up the ingredients and put them into a pot to make miso soup. When all of the dishes were ready and the wild mountain vegetables were arranged, it was so gorgeous! The lady who taught me how to cook it is a master of local cuisines in snow country, and she knew everything about how to make the ingredients delicious and when was the best time to eat them! Even now, I still don't understand how she was able to make the burdock root so soft -- maybe she used some kind of magic!?

Yuzawa Kogen: During the snow season, Yuzawa Kogen becomes a snow resort, but when the snow isn't falling it turns into a panoramic park with spectacular views! If you go in the fall when the leaves are changing and take the cable car to the to, then you can see the entire mountain as it's covered in colorful foliage. There are also sofas at the top of the mountain where you can sit and savor the view, or you can also go and enjoy a crepe at the restaurant while taking in the panoramic view. On the other hand, if you go during flower season, then be sure to visit one of the largest rock garden in Japan! At an altitude of 2,500m (8,200 feet), many rare alpine plants are grown on the mountain, and this is absolutely recommended for people who like flowers. My personal favorite though, was the bobsled with a total course length of 706m (2,316 feet)! You can freely control the speed, but if you just let it run hands off, then it goes quite fast and becomes really scary. Make sure to slow down at the places marked with "slow" signs! However, if a timid person goes too slowly then it can create a big traffic jam behind them, and other people will have to wait to enjoy the exhilaration of slicing through the wind. You might think that it's just bobsledding, but speed control is also an academic discipline.

Matsudai Nohbutai: At Matsudai Nohbutai near Matsudai Station, there is an exhibition with dozens of artworks made in a variety of media. Among them are some of them will surprise you with how interesting and playful art can be. But the work that everyone knows, of course, are the gigantic wavy flowers of "Tsumari in Bloom" by Kusama Yayoi! Nohbutai also has an unfamiliar, yet nostalgic, classroom that is covered in deep green, and, if you look closely, you can see that everything in the room is made of the same material as blackboards. This is a classroom where you can use chalk to scribble anywhere! When I was a kid I didn't ever really think about the blackboard, and it was a commonplace item that I could see every day, but, now that I'm an adult and working, the blackboard has changed into a fun and emotional object from my childhood memories. For lunch, I visited Echigo-Matsudai Satoyama Shokudo. It's so fantastic that just looking at the light blue design makes my heart flutter! The sweeping windows overlook the artwork on the mountain, and the "princess-style" interior aesthetic is reflected in the view, creating a wonderful atmosphere. Look again, and you'll see that the tables are mirrors that reflect pictures and decorations on the ceiling. It's a truly ingenious design, so that even people who are eating with their heads down can enjoy the art. The only thing is that the curry is... very, very, very spicy... if you don't like spicy food, then I'd strongly recommend that you order something else!

Dinner: Dining Room Cosmos in Belnatio
This buffet restaurant in Belnatio has just reopened on July 16, 2022, and it has Japanese, Western, and even Cantonese cuisines (for real -- they even have char siu and soy sauce chicken!) for people to enjoy. My personal favorites were the freshly made sushi that was prepared by the chef on the spot, the crispy tempura, and the well-aged lamb. I also strongly recommend the all-you-can-drink option. In addition to regular cocktails, they have everything from sake and red wine to champagne. It was my first time using a red wine "beer server" (or should it be called a red wine server?), so I pressed the wrong button, the red wine started making a mess, and it almost looked like the scene of a crime... Everyone, make sure that when you are pouring red wine, that you do so calmly and don't just arbitrarily push buttons!

Kiyotsu Gorge: The Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel, which combines the natural scenery with the art of light and shadow, is one of the must-visit spots in Niigata. When you pass through the 750m (2,460 foot) long "Tunnel of Light," which has the five elements of water, fire, wood, metal, and earth as motifs, you can see a "water mirror" that represents the element of water! At the half-moon shaped tunnel exit, Kiyotsu Gorge is clearly reflected on the water's surface, forming a beautiful circle. If you want to take a picture of yourself without any other people, then make sure to come early! Lots of people wait in line even before the opening. Additionally, make sure to pay attention to the small room with the silver domed roof. From the outside it doesn't look like it, but this is a toilet with a view that you can only see while using it. If a suspicious person tries to jump or climb up you might be able to see their head, but at that point you can just yell or scream to scare them away! Here you can gaze out at the scenery of Kiyotsu Gorge while also relieving yourself. However, don't stay too long because there's still so much to do and see!

Northern Culture Museum: The Northern Culture Museum was originally built in 1889 as the Ito Residence, which was later renovated into a museum in 1946 and is now available for us to tour. The museum has 18,000 square meters (193,750 square feet) of space, and there are numerous collections inside, letting you see how the rich in Niigata lived at that time. In addition, you can also view the scenery of the garden during each season, with cherry blossoms fluttering down in the spring and dignified ancient lotuses blooming in the summer, and looking at the splendor of the 150-year-old wisteria tree will make you sigh in contentment. From the large hall and the large garden, you can also enjoy a beautiful view of the garden framed by the windows of the hall. Relax here, take some pictures, post them to social media, and you won't be disappointed!

Lunch: Tsubamesanjo Italian Bit Tsubamesanjo Main Store
Coming to Niigata to eat Italian food? Tsubamesanjo Italian Bit Tsubamesanjo Main Store is an Italian restaurant, but, in fact, it mostly uses seasonal Niigata ingredients, so it isn't "out of the theme" for a trip to Niigata. Additionally, the Tsubamesanjo area has long been famous for its metalwork, and BIt uses Tsubamesanjo products for all of its cooking utensils and cutlery, and the restaurant is very close with the local community! While there I ordered the charcoal-grilled lamb shoulder. The lamb was deliciously soft, and the aroma of the charcoal made it irresistible. However, the most interesting thing was the variety of special sauces. The dish looks like a picture, but, when you eat it, each of the sauces brings out a variety of flavors, such as the umami and sweetness of the lamb. It was like getting to eat and savor a fun and delicious work of art, and it was made an unforgettable impression on me!

Mt. Yahiko & Yahiko Park & Ropeway: Yahiko Park covers an area of more than 13,200 square meters (32.67 acres), and lets people enjoy beautiful Japanese scenery all year round. For example, there are somei-yoshino cherry blossoms in April, double cherry blossoms in May, and fireflies on summer nights. I visited in November, which is the season of brilliant fall colors. The ultra-popular fall leaves spot in Yahiko Park is called "Momoji Valley," and it always ranks at the top of spots for fall leaves! Momiji Valley's most distinctive features is nothing more than the vermillion bridges and maple trees that illuminate each other. It's almost as if they are competing to see which has the most brilliant, beautiful red. There are too many tourists on the weekends and holidays, so if you want to take pictures on the red bridges and maple leaves, then you can either take pictures of the scenery as it is or come early on weekdays. And if you don't like getting up early? Then it's also worth seeing the maple leaves at night! In the early evening, when the lights come on and the neon lighting illuminates the autumnal leaves, it looks just like a landscape painting by a famous artist!

Gotokuya Jube Photoshoot (Geisha Style):
Are courtesan experiences only available in Kyoto? No! You can also take beautiful courtesan pictures in Niigata Prefecture. Moreover, it's cheaper than doing so in Kyoto! The first floor of Gotokuya Jube is a unique courtesan shop with a regular cafe on the first floor, with gorgeous courtesan costumes on the second floor, and adorable cats wandering about on both floors. I went for the "Oiran Course" (¥22,000 + tax), where you can receive three touched up photos and the original data for 20 photos. After all, because I've come all this way, I definitely want both the touched up photos and the original data! I told the proprietress that when I had a geisha photoshoot done before that I was dressed in a glamorous red costume, but she used her discretion and made me up in the exact opposite style, and I ended up looking like the sister of a powerful lord! Instead of making everyone into the same type of courtesan, Gotokuya Jube really emphasizes each individual's personality, and they can change the makeup according to your face and bring out each individual's beauty. While the makeup artist worked on the best look for me, it was so incredibly exciting to watch the transformation during the makeup process and to imagine what the 'finished product' would look like! After having the make-up applied and getting into the suuuuper heavy courtesan costume, the photographer appeared! They also prepared small items, such as folding fans and umbrellas, that perfectly fit the scene. And, don't worry about where to direct your gaze.　The photographer will tell you how to do each pose to look your most beautiful. Bend your neck, waist, and legs as the photographer instructs, and, even if it's a somewhat unnatural pose to hold, if your expression and eyes are beautiful then it will be OK. Personally, I feel like I got to know a part of myself that I don't usually see, and I'm extremely satisfied with how the photos turned out. Perhaps this courtesan experience is a mirror that reflects another side of one's heart?

All in all, the schedule was really full, and I was able to see not only the Tokyo metropolis, but also the traditional beauty of Japan. It's so convenient to go to Niigata from Tokyo. If you're looking to make a short trip from Tokyo to another prefecture, then I heartily recommend going to Niigata! When I visited Niigata, the autumn leaves were at their peak, and the reds and oranges everywhere added warmth to the autumn scenery, which made for an unforgettable trip.