FOUR SEASONAL ANCIENT LANDSCAPES

Todoroki Valley: When I first glimpsed Todoroki Valley from the top of the stairs a few steps from Todoroki Station, itself a 15-minute train ride from Shibuya, I could scarcely believe my eyes. In the heart of the city, a verdant valley with a river running through it. You can take walk down the ravine to enjoy a temperature some 2°C below that of the surrounding area, amid luxuriant nature. If this was a pleasant stroll on a rainy day in October, I can only imagine how welcome it would be in the heart of the hot and humid Tokyo summer.

At the end of the path awaited two more surprises: Todoroki Fudoson, a Buddhist temple that overlooks the valley and the main building of which is accessed by lantern-lined pathway, and Nihon Teien, a Japanese garden that offers a resting spot before returning back up the track to the city.

Meiji Jingu: We set out for Meiji Jingu at dawn to make the most of the peace and quiet. What struck me most of all, beyond the beauty of the immense torii gates and the shrines, was the forest. Since the completion of Meiji Jingu in 1920, when thousands of trees were planted, the forest has been untouched by the human hand. We then visited Meiji Jingu Gyoen, a peaceful Japanese garden commissioned by Emperor Meiji so that Empress Shoken even in frail condition could visit for a walk. During my visit in early October, it may have been too early for autumn leaves yet it was especially soothing, thanks to the variety of flora and the sophisticated spaces that gave me a sense of the four seasons in Japan.

MIYASHITA PARK: MIYASHITA PARK opened in 2020 in Shibuya, just steps from the station and the famous intersection. It has a shopping mall, hotel, restaurants...and MIYASHITA PARK, featuring green and pleasant public spaces and sports equipment. Sequence MIYASHITA PARK is a hotel overlooking the park with rooms raning from comfortable, compact rooms ideal for groups of friends to a luxury suite offering an exceptional panoramic views across Tokyo. The hotel cafe is open to all and frequented by those attracted by the setting and the WiFi. Rayard MIYASHITA PARK shopping mall should also be on your radar as a superb venue for eating and shopping.

Lunch at Teppanyaki Sakura
Entering Teppanyaki Sakura, I found myself in elegant surrounds: soft lighting, copper-toned hues, walls of cherry tree trunk timber. There is seating at the bar for 10 diners to watch the chef cooking with carefully selected produce on the hotplate. This promised to be an incredible gastronomic experience, and so it turned out to be. The dexterity, precision and passion with which the chef prepared vegetables, seafood, wagyu beef and even a dorayaki hotcake dessert only heightened my appreciation of their flavor.

Dinner: Barubora-ya, Shinjuku Golden Gai
For dinner, we chose one of the 300 bars and izakaya that populate the nightlife district of Golden Gai, Shinjuku. Due to their miniscule size - not more than 12 seats - foreign tourists may not find it easy to get in the door. Yet, the owner of Barubora-ya welcomed us with an English menu with pictures: drinks of course, and simple sharing plates cooked to order in a warm atmosphere.

Shinkansen (Tokyo → Toyama): After finding our ideal breakfast among the plethora of options offered at an ekiben kiosk (a contraction of eki meaning "train station", ben short for bento), we boarded the Shinkansen for Toyama. The two hour journey was just enough time to settle in, eat breakfast, do some reading and watch the rapidly passing landscapes of Tokyo buildings, rice paddies and mountains.

Amaharashi Coast: The Amaharashi Coast at Takaoka features a view sought after by photographers: a rock in the sea topped by a tree, the Tateyama Mountains looming behind. Sadly we were unable to see the mountains during our visit due to the cloudy weather, but that did not stop us from admiring the bay, rated one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. It has been the setting of legendary samurai tales, but it is also an abundant treasure trove of fish, which I would soon have the chance to savor. After a stroll along the beach, we stopped into the Michinoeki Amaharashi roadside station. Inside was a cafe-restaurant, a souvenir shop with local products and an unobstructed view of the coast.

Shokoji Temple: The twelve buildings of Shokoji Temple are all designated as Important Cultural Properties and even though I had never heard of it, the temple is just as impressive as others that attract crowds of visitors. The main hall, built at the end of the 18th century, is modeled on the Amida-do Hall in Nishi Honganji, Kyoto, but the other buildings, including Kyodo, a temple that houses a rotating sutra library that is well worth the detour.

Lunch: (Sushikin *Toyama Bay Sushi)
Toyama Bay plunges to depths of over 1000m and is home to at least 500 species of fish and crustaceans of the 800 species found in Japan. The proximity of the coast to such an abundant fishery means that seafood arrives exceptionally fresh in the markets and restaurants of the region. Learning this made me drool, so what better than a sushi restaurant to appreciate these products. Each fish or shellfish prepared before me by the chef was a new surprise of flavor and texture, so delicate that there was no need even to add soy sauce: a delight. Toyama has published a small guide to faciliate communication. Using the guide, you can point out what you want to order, or indicate a food allergy or preference - a welcome initaitive indeed.

Gokayama Gassho-style village: Having already visited Shirakawa-go, I was eager to discover Gokayama, the other village with a UNESCO World Heritage listing for its Gassho-zukuri houses and unaltered landscapes. I was told that the village of Ainokura may be smaller than its more famous neighbor, but was equally worthwhile to visit - and so it proved. It is a stand of 20 houses, each with a straw thatched roof as is typical of the region. Yet this timeless landscape, with its shrines and temples, its stone walls and rice paddies, is not a museum but a thriving hamlet. You can take part in a washi papermaking workshop, sample the local specialties in one of its two restaurants, or even stay in one of its six ryokan (inns).

Dinner at hotel: Enraku, in Unazuki Hot Springs
After the marvellous sushi partaken at lunch, I could not wait to discover what was in store for my evening meal. I was not disappointed. The dinner served in the private dining room at the hotel, the Enraku ryokan, was a veritable feast. The cuisine was kaiseki, a meal of many dishes allowing a taste of local, seasonal specialties cooked in a variety of ways. Most dishes reflected the delicate flavors of the produce of Toyama Bay, with some autumnal offerings as well.

Accommodation: Enraku, Unazuki Hot Springs
The Enraku ryokan, located in the hot springs resort of Unazaki Onsen, provides a setting that is as refined as its cuisine. The traditional room I slept in was spacious and overlooked the Kurobe Gorge, which we would be visiting the next day. I was inspired to try out the hot spa of the establishment both in the evening and in the morning, as the two outdoor baths alternate between male and female, each offering a different experience. One is traditional, surrounded by large stones, while the other is modern, lined with cypress timbers from floor to ceiling that exude a captivating scent.

Kurobe Gorge Railway: It was with almost childlike excitement that I boarded the little "Torokko" train that travels along the Kurobe Gorge and through its diverse landscapes. After 1 hour and 18 minutes, we arrived in Keyakidaira, the starting point for walkers and hikers. This was an opportunity to see some Japanese macacques up close, although they did not seem overly bothered by us (and I was awarded a certificate at the station for managing to photograph them!) Discovering that the tracks led to a number of hot springs, we made an impromptu stop at Meiken Onsen, just 15 minutes' walk from the station, for an outdoor soak in 40°C waters overlooking the gorge...so good, this one suddenly shot to the top of my all-time favorites list!

Lunch: Rest-in Keyaki (Keyakidaira Sta.)
Before getting back on the train, we had lunch at the Rest-in Keyaki in Keyakidaira Station. All sorts of Japanese dishes are on offer here while you keep an eye on the gorge through the floor-to-ceiling windows: udon, soba, curry and above all, the famous "black ramen" of Toyama with its dark and savory broth. For our part, we enjoyed a bento topped with a variety of local specialties, a great way to discover the regional cuisine and available for groups by advance booking.

Dinner at hotel: Mori no Kaze Tateyama
That night, at the Mori No Kaze Tateyama hotel, we were served another kaiseki course in an elegant private dining room. The tasting menu, consisting of a great variety of dishes, offered a profusion of local in-season products from the classics of sashimi and tempura to some more surprising textures and flavors. This was an exploration of lesser-known aspects of Japanese cuisine.

Accommodation: Mori no Kaze Tateyama
The Mori No Kaze Tateyama hotel, situated near the start of the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, brings together service of high standard and a facility that is very welcoming for families: play areas for the kids, family rooms and a huge hot spring where you can try all manner of thermal baths. The choice of rooms and spacious suites means everyone can find something to suit: traditional Japanese rooms with futons or beds, Western rooms and even some "villas" with private spa and deck.

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route: Our last day was dedicated to the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, which I knew from the photos of walls of snow over 10m high that tower over part of the road in the spring. But I was delighted to learn that a summer visit is just as highly recommended, as is a trip to see the autumn leaves which turn color earlier than they do in Tokyo. Early October was the ideal time for this, and we were blessed with magnificent weather. As much as the Tateyama Mountains are loved by hikers, the Alpine Route with its diverse modes of transport allows everyone to discover the landscapes and mountains without too much effort with stops and walks in various locations along the way. The route passes through the sacred mountains of Tateyama and their stunning volcanic landscapes rising to over 3000m, as well as Kurobe Dam, Japan's largest, impressive for its size, the power of its discharge and the scale of the construction, which required at least 10 million workers.

Dinner: Ekiben, etc.
From the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, we took a bus to Nagano Station, where I was able to buy an ekiben full of local flavors before boarding the Shinkansen bound for Tokyo. It was a journey of about 1.5 hours, during which I could calmly enjoy my dinner while reflecting on the last four days from the comfort of my seat.

This trip was an exploration of the nature that has been preserved in the middle of Tokyo, as well as of Toyama, easily accessible from the capital. Each new destination is also an opportunity to learn more about local history and culture, not to mention unforgettable culinary experiences, thanks to the quality of the produce and the talented local chefs.